Several bare-chested models brandished spears, shields and knobkerries throughout the show, which ended the third instalment of the South African Menswear Week (SAMW) Autumn/Winter 2016 on a high note at the Cape Town Stadium.
Founder of the Magents brand, Didier, said woven through the collection was the theme of a “konscious warrior”. Didier said it was time for Africans to tell their story, and be “the best in the world”.
Referring to Africa’s colonial past he said: “Our perceptions of Africa have been shaped by a Westernised perspective, and the East is coming. They will tell us who we are. It is time for Africa to find out who we are as a continent,” he said. Africans, he emphasised, should create that narrative.
During SAMW, 26 designers took to the catwalk to showcase their interpretations of trends for the chilly months ahead.
Outfits with strong, bold, vibrant colours such as greens, reds, oranges, blues and yellows, as well as a muted palette added interest to a subdued winter landscape.
Fabrics, which were layered for warmth or chunky in appearance, varied, from wool, silk, linen, leather and cotton to mohair and suede. Shapes ranged from fitted, body-hugging looks to rich, thoughtful loose layerings and bold, deconstructed shapes. Print on print items add colour to dark winter days.
The modern, fashion-conscious man would stand out in the well-cut jackets and coats with interesting detailing. Skirts, head-dresses and soft clothing associated with feminine silhouettes are perfect for men bold enough to break the mould.
A quirky, delightful, sparkly “circus flair” collection from fashion’s enfant terrible, Tzvi Karp, showed that fashion isn’t always serious. One would have to be very brave to wear these colourful, boxy, sassy ensembles.
Orange Culture designer Adebayo Oke-Lawal said his collection was a departure from his usual intellectual viewpoint. He used slogans such as “See me”, “Hear me” and “Touch me” as a way of connecting with his audience and inspiring men to be “brave and vulnerable” and speak out about who they are.
The influences of North African, Arabian and West African styles could be seen in some collections. Imprint designer Mzukisi Mbane drew on these influences for his collection, “Harbouring Hope”. Mbane, who used Ghanian kente cloth said: “I opened myself to experiencing other cultures. It is a very interesting time to be a menswear designer as masculinity has evolved.”
He noted that the rand’s fall was challenging, as “everything is expensive”. He said he hoped his collection would inspire men to believe that they can experiment with fashion and not be confined by rules.
Collections that pushed boundaries included Chu Suwannapha’s label, Chulaap, a delightful collection of colourful prints with a nod to military embellishments. Suwannapha’s not-to-be-missed collection, “Embracing Africa”, was shown inside the air force premises near the Cape Town Stadium. Sunnapha’s second collection lived up to expectations.
Wool and colourful prints juxaposed with military elements dominated the collection. “Men should have fun with fashion,” said Suwannapha, who makes his own wool.
He said he was “inspired by the three brothers who run the blog, ‘I see a different you’ and travel through Africa”. Their images of hills, mountains and a military presence resonated with him.
Blankets used in his collection were a nod to the tribes who wear blankets as part of their traditional dress. The military cut styles signified how in Africa “there is a lot of war”. Suwannapha said his message through his collection was to call on people to “make art, not war and celebrate Africa”.
During SAMW, 26 designers took to the catwalk to showcase their interpretations of trends for the chilly months ahead.
